AurEx Assembly Guide

Safety Precautions, Warranty, and Disclaimer Improper soldering and handling of electricity can cause serious injury and damage to your property. Read and understand the instructions below before beginning your project. Follow the instructions, build carefully, and use the appropriate tools. Build at your own risk. DIY Recording Equipment, LLC is not responsible for any damage or injury resulting from the assembly or use of your kit. You are the manufacturer of your kit. It is your responsibility to turn this group of parts into a working piece of recording equipment. DIY Recording Equipment, LLC does not guarantee the success of your project and disclaims any Implied Warranty of Merchantability. Please visit the support forum for assembly support.
Damaged or Missing Parts All kits and parts are checked before being shipped to you. If something arrives damaged or if your kit is missing a part, please open a support ticket to inquire about a replacement. Missing parts will be replaced at our expense. Damaged parts should be returned for verification. If the part shows signs of use beyond what was necessary to determine that it was damaged, DIY Recording Equipment, LLC reserves the right not to replace the part.
Welcome to the AurEx assembly guide.

Thank you for purchasing an AurEx.

If this is your first DIY project ever, we recommend reading our Getting Started Guide.

Required Tools top

Soldering Iron
We recommend an adjustable-temperature station, such as the Weller WLC100.

Solder
You can use 60/40 "leaded" solder or lead-free. We recommend 60/40 because it flows better and is easier for beginners to use.

Wire Cutters
You'll need a pair of good "snips" for cutting of the excess leads after soldering.

Flat Head Screwdriver
A small flat head screwdriver for adjusting a trimpot.

Optional Tools top

Multi-meter
If you run into problems, a multimeter can come in handy. You can also use it to sort resistors.

Desoldering Pump
If you accidentally solder something in the wrong place, a desoldering pump can save the day.

Component Sorting Sheet top

To identify and keep track of every part in the kit, download and print the Component Sorting Sheet (PDF).

Standoffs, Header, and IC Socket (Bag 1) top

Insert Standoffs top

Note that there are two different ends on the plastic standoffs. The locking end has tabs with a right angle to prevent them from being removed after installation, while the non-locking end has smooth tabs. Insert the locking ends of the standoffs from the bottom of the PCB.

Populate 8-Pin Header top

Insert the 8-pin header into the holes marked “CON1.” Make sure to place the short, silver pins through the bottom of the PCB so that the PCB rests on the black plastic posts. Solder the header from the top of the PCB and do not trim the leads afterward.

Tape and Solder IC Socket top

Insert the IC socket so that the notches on the sockets align with the markings on the PCB. Secure in place with tape. Then flip the PCB over and solder in place. Remove the tape.

Resistors (Bag 2) top

Bend Resistors top

Bend the resistor leads 90 degrees at the body so they can be inserted into the PCB.

Sort Resistors top

Resistor sorting made easy! Enter a value to find the color bands, or enter your color bands to find the resistor’s value. Type in the value of the resistor you need and this tool will show you the corresponding color code.

Place Resistors top

Place the resistors into their respective positions on the PCB. As you place each resistor, bend its leads against the bottom of the PCB so that it stays in place during soldering.

Solder Resistors top

Solder the resistors to the PCB. Observe good soldering technique: heat the pad and lead for 2-3 seconds, apply a small bit of solder, and continue to heat the pad for another 2-3 seconds. The finished joints should be shiny and should have just enough solder to cover the pad entirely.

Trim Resistors top

Use clippers to trim away the excess leads. Clip as closely as possible to the joint without clipping the joint itself.

Diodes, Capacitors, Trimpots (Bag 3) top

Populate Diodes top

Place each diode so that the line on the component matches the line on the PCB. Double check the orientation, then solder and trim.

Populate Resistor Arrays top

Place the resistor arrays in the RA1 and RA2 positions. Although these parts do have a dot for alignment, the orientation does not matter. Bend a couple leads of each array to hold them in place. Then solder and trim the excess leads.

Populate Small Capacitors top

Place the smaller capacitors in their respective places. These capacitors are not polarized and therefore can be placed in either direction. Solder then trim the leads.

Populate Trimpots top

Populate the trimpots in the orientation marked on the PCB. Leave the trimmers alone for right now, we will set them in another step.

IC (Bag 4) top

Place IC in Socket top

The leads of the IC must be slightly bent to fit perfectly into the socket. Press one row of leads against a flat surface until they form a 90-degree angle with the body of the IC. Then do this for the other row.

IC polarity is indicated by a dot or notch on one side of the body. Align this side with the notch in the socket. Place the IC in this direction, and press it completely into the socket.

Populate Large Capacitors top

The 100uF capacitors are polarized, so they must be placed in a certain direction. The positive lead is slightly longer, while the negative lead is marked with a stripe on the body of the capacitor. Place the capacitors with the positive lead in the pad next to the "+" marking on the PCB.

The 4.7uF capacitors are not polarized and can be installed in either direction. Place the large capacitors, then solder and trim.

Final Checks top

    Before you wrap up, check the following things:

  • Capacitor orientation: Is the stripe on the cap on the opposite side from the "+" marking on the PCB?
  • Resistors: Are all the resistors in the correct positions?
  • IC orientation: Does the dot/notch on the IC align with the notches on the socket and PCB?
  • Diode orientation: Do the stripes on the diode match those on the PCB?
  • Soldering: Is every solder joint shiny and clean? If one is cloudy or misshapen, try reheating it for 8 seconds and adding a tiny bit more solder.
  • Trimming: Are all of the excess leads trimmed down as close to the joint as possible?

Set Options top

The AurEx is two signal processors in one: a low-frequency maximizer and a high-frequency exciter. Each has it's own dedicated saturation circuitry, so adjusting one band does not affect the other.

VR1 controls the amount of the LF maximizer that is mixed into the dry signal. In the CCW position, the maximizer is completely off. In the CW position the maximizer is equal to the dry signal for 50/50 wet/dry mix. Note that VR1 does not control the gain and therefore the distortion of the maximizer circuit. Instead, this is controlled by the Colour knob on the front panel.

VR2 controls the gain of the HF exciter circuitry. In the CCW position, there will be a slight HF boost but none of the exciter effect. As you turn VR2 CW, both the gain and saturation of the exciter circuit increase. Unlike the maxmizer, the exciter is always set to 50/50 wet/dry mix.

Finished! top

All good? Congrats on finishing your build! Have a question or problem? Drop us a line.

Help Us Improve top


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